Modern Fat Quarter Quilting On-Point
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Try Modern Fat Quarter Quilting
With endless arrays of fabric choices available, Modern Fat Quarter Quilting is widely popular. What I haven’t seen much of, is modern fat quarter quilting on-point. Most fat quarter quilt patterns are generally quick to sew, providing a finished quilt in record time. While that’s a great option, sometimes we want to try something a bit different. Therefore, quilting on-point is a great opportunity for a new project.
Quilting on-point dramatically changes the look of most patchwork blocks. Modern fat quarter quilting on-point will take a bit more cutting but will result in a gorgeous quilt top. My easy technique to get the right size side-triangles makes it all go together much easier. Even more importantly, it doesn’t require any fancy math to figure it out.
‘All Blocked In’ Quilt Pattern Set On-Point
Modern Fat Quarter Quilting has been my go-to for many years. With a huge stash of batik fat quarters on hand, there’s no shortage of inspiration to get the next quilt started. Recently, I saw some quilt designs set on-point and was immediately inspired to make my own on-point quilt. But first I needed the right block for a modern look.
My FREE ‘All Blocked In’ quilt pattern is a very versatile block for both traditional and modern quilting. Seeing it set on-point really had me intrigued. There would be some extra blocks needed for the edges, but I had plenty of fabric for that, as you’ll see below.
Batik Fat Quarter Fabric Selection
With a modern fat quarter quilting on-point project on my mind, the most important step was the fabric options. I was anxious to decide on the right fabric selection to get started.
There’s been a beautiful batik fat quarter bundle on my work table for months now. I used the Homeward Fat Quarter Bundle by Natalie Barnes for Windham Fabrics, but unfortunately it’s sold out. It’s a modern collection of graphic black and white prints with some fabulous, vibrant color-saturated bold prints. When I saw this curated fabric bundle at QuiltCon earlier this year, there was no walking away. Needless to say, it came home with me and I’ve been looking at it for months for just the right project.
The idea was formulating and soon the perfect plan for this fabric was ready to go. Now, to put the design together.
Fat Quarter Fabric Selection for Each Block
Because this block is 14”, this quilt is going to be big. It will require 24 blocks total. Since six fat quarters makes 6 blocks, this quilt will need a total of 24 fat quarters. Plus, there are also the contrasting accent strips which will require four more fat quarters.
With so many different fabrics to combine, I wanted to have a good balance of black and white fabrics in each block. Therefore, in order for each block to stand on its own, there needs to be plenty of contrast. My post on Easy Fat Quarter Quilting Using High Contrast Fabrics gives a detailed explanation of how to best group your fabrics for an ideal contrasting block.
A Bit of Color to Keep it Interesting
Finally, to add one more dimension to the design, one of fat quarters in each block will be a bold color print. There was no other choice, as the curated bundle had the perfect fabrics to use. Not only the prints, but some great accent pieces too. That’s the beauty of a curated fabric bundle, someone has already done the hard work of putting the perfect fabrics together.
You’ll see included above are photos of the fabric selections and the block layout for each set of six blocks. The four fabric groups have great contrast and some wonderful pops of color. The floral fabric print is especially colorful and all the colors work from there. That’s a big reason why these fabrics are going to make a beautiful quilt!
What Does On-Point Mean in Quilting
What Is Quilting On-Point
Perhaps you’ve never made a quilt on-point, or are unfamiliar with the term. Generally, when we assemble blocks for a quilt top, it’s done with straight rows from top to bottom and from side to side. Think about rotating that quilt top just enough to put those rows on a diagonal pattern so they now make an ‘X’ instead of a ‘+’. Because the blocks are assembled diagonally, there are some extra considerations to this design.
What Is an On-Point Quilt Layout
Laying out a quilt on-point, means that the squares are set on their point instead of their flat side. The diagonal set of the quilt blocks makes a very visually interesting design. Many blocks may take on a whole new look when set on-point. Just think about some of your favorite quilt blocks and visualize them turned in a new direction. It opens a whole new way to design your quilts!
What Are Setting Triangles
An on-point quilt is assembled with diagonal rows of blocks. Where the rows end along the edge of the quilt top there are triangular areas that need to be filled. This is where setting triangles are needed to square up your quilt top. First, corner setting triangles are placed at each corner. Then side setting triangles are placed along the edges until the quilt top is completely squared up.
What’s the Difference Between On-Point and Square-in-a-Square in Quilting
Don’t confuse ‘on-point’ and ‘square-in-a-square’ when designing a quilt layout. The results look very similar but are achieved by different piecing methods. On-point quilts use filler triangles around the quilt edge where the diagonal rows don’t meet up squarely. Square-in-a-square quilts use triangles around each individual block to tilt it on its point. This method creates an overall background across a quilt top, whereas the on-point design keeps each block side-by-side in diagonal rows.
You’ve probably seen the ‘square-in-a-square’ pattern in many different quilt designs. Take any block and add background triangles to each side and you now have an inner block on-point. That’s a great way to design your quilt if you want a background around every block. Setting blocks square allows you to visually put your blocks on-point while still sewing them all in straight rows, instead of diagonal rows.
How to Layout an On-Point Quilt
Using your total number of quilt blocks, determine how many rows and columns of blocks you’ll have. Begin with your first block and place it standing on its point. It’s easier for me to start in the middle and work out diagonally on each side. Alternating rows of on-point blocks will nest together where their four points meet. Once all the blocks are placed, you’ll see the open triangle areas at the end of each row. Now’s a great time to take a picture or two as a reference for later.
Next it’s time to place your triangles around the edges but start with the corners first. You’ll notice in this pattern there are two small corner setting triangles that meet up at the end of the longest, center row. These small corner setting triangles are the width of a single diagonal row. There are also two large corner setting triangles that meet up with the width of two diagonal rows. Therefore, these two triangles will need to be larger in size to fill those corners. Finally, the sides are filled in with eight equally sized side setting triangles.
Now to Assemble On-Point Quilt Rows
Sewing begins with the side setting triangles on each end of every row. Beginning with the first row, which only has one block, sew a side setting triangle to each side of the block. Make sure the side setting triangles are sewn in the mirror image of each other in order to form a square quilt top. Your finished row should be narrower on the outer length and wider on the inner length.
The second row will have three blocks which will be sandwiched in between two side setting triangles. Continue sewing rows together with a side setting triangle at each end until you come to the longest diagonal row. After you assemble the longest row, the following rows will become shorter to match the previous sewn rows. Once all the rows are assembled with their side setting triangles in place, your quilt will begin to look more like a square. Now you will attach the corners to the previously sewn rows.
How to Sew Corner Setting Triangles to an On-Point Quilt Top
In this quilt, there are two different size corner setting triangles. The two smallest corner setting triangles will be sewn to each end of the longest row. With right sides together, place the long, diagonal edge of the smallest corner setting triangle on top of the end block. Match the center of the corner setting triangle edge to the center of block at the end of the row. Sew the seam, noticing that there will be points of fabric extending past the square block. That’s exactly what you want in order to allow enough seam allowance to finish the quilt without loosing any of your block’s corners.
The second set of larger, corner setting triangles will be sewn to the two single block rows at the opposite ends. Again, with right sides together, match the centers and sew one corner setting triangle to each of the single block rows. You will again have fabric points extending beyond the block which is simply an extension of the seam allowance. Once completed and set back in place, you’ll see your quilt top begin to take a square shape.
How to Sew Blocks into Rows for an On-Point Quilt Top
With the diagonal rows in place and their side setting triangles attached, it’s time to begin sewing the rows together. The easiest method is to work from the smallest row toward the center. Begin with one of the single block rows with a large corner setting previously attached. Turn that row over onto the next row, right sides together. You will be sewing the longest length of the single block row, to the shortest length of the triple block row. Sew your ¼” seam matching and nesting the block seams as you sew. Once sewn, open it out flat and your first assembly should look like a large triangle.
Repeat this same assembly for the opposite corner so you’ll have two large triangular units completed. Notice how the side setting triangles are creating a nice straight edge at the end of the diagonal rows. Next you will attach each of these units to opposite sides of the longest, center row.
How to Finish the Final Assembly of an On-Point Quilt Top
When attaching the corner units to the center row, be sure to line up your blocks correctly to make a square. It’s worth putting in a few pins where the blocks will be joined just to be sure your row is placed where it needs to be. Sew your ¼” seam matching and nesting the block seams as you sew. Once both corner units are attached, your quilt top is complete.
How to Make On-Point Setting Triangles
There’s an Easier Way to Make Setting Triangles
Let me share my easy method for making these setting triangles. It’s what makes this quilt much simpler than the traditional method. There are many traditions I adhere to, but if there’s a sewing or quilting shortcut, I’m at the head of the line. Because I’ve sewn for years, and now enjoy making my own quilt patterns, I allow myself plenty of liberties when making a quilt.
There are mathematical formulas to figure out the exact size of the triangles needed for an on-point quilt, but I’ve found an easier way. All I need are some extra fabric strips left over from cutting the blocks, my cutting mat and a ruler, both with a printed 45-degree line. If you’re inclined to solve problems visually, you won’t believe how easy this is. It will involve a bit more sewing, but I’d rather sew an extra seam than make a wrong cut! How about you?
The Easy Way to Make Setting Triangles
This method works best on patchwork blocks with multiple seams such as this ‘All Blocked In’ pattern. These interior seams help to stabilize that bias-cut fabric on the long cut edge. Additionally, two rows of staystitching are added before cutting the block. First a line is drawn down the center from corner to corner. Then a row of staystitching is sewn 1/8th inch from each side of the line. When the block is cut along the diagonal line down the center, both cut edges are now reinforced with the extra staystitching. They’re not going anywhere.
The additional step of staystitching the block first also helps to secure the cut edges which is why it works perfectly for this pattern. On the other hand, the traditional method of cutting side setting and corner setting triangles from a single piece of square fabric still requires sewing seams with edges cut on the bias. This is very difficult to work with as the bias edge is prone to stretching…a lot!
What is Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitching sewn through a single layer of cut fabric for the purpose of reinforcing the cut shape. It is sewn with a narrower seam allowance which keeps it closer to the outer edge, so it remains unseen on the right side.
Staystitching is commonly used when sewing clothing, especially when sewing around curves. This extra row of straight stitching stabilizes the cut edge to maintain its shape. For this quilt, staystitching reinforces the diagonal bias edge of the outer triangles. If left unsewn, these edges would stretch, ruffle and become totally unmanageable. But that problem is solved by staystitching the block before it’s cut.
How to Make On-Point Small Corner Setting Triangles
This quilt requires 24 blocks that each measure 14 ½” square. Eighteen blocks will make up the center of the quilt top. Two blocks will make up the four setting corners and the remaining four blocks will make up the eight side setting triangles.
Place the block you want to use as your small corner setting triangles face down on your cutting mat. Square it up with the grid, and most importantly line it up with the 45-degree line. Two opposite corners should line up exactly on that 45-degree line. Draw a straight line from corner to corner making sure it’s visible enough to see when you’re staystitching. If you don’t have a lined mat, lay your ruler from corner to corner, ensuring the 45-degree line is straight with the edge of the block.
Now you will add the staystitching. Sew a single line of stitching along each side of your drawn line using a 1/8” seam allowance. Then, with either your rotary cutter or a pair of scissors, cut the block in half from corner to corner. You have created two small corner triangles with a reinforced cut edge, making your quilt assembly much easier! Now set these corners in place at the ends of the longest diagonal row.
How to Make On-Point Large Corner Setting Triangles
While the same process is applied here, the block must be bigger because the corner setting triangle needs to be bigger. Remember, this triangle spans across two blocks requiring a wider corner setting triangle. Increase the size of a single block by adding multiple strips to two adjacent sides of the block. Continue adding strips to the same two sides until the block measures at least 21½” x 21½”, but not more than 22” square.
You’ll see in my quilt, that the large corner setting triangles have print and accent fabrics to the outside. This was fabric left over from cutting the blocks. The outside color placement was intentional to create a visible edge to the quilt top, especially at the corners. If you follow these next directions, you will also have the same layout.
Place the block on your mat lining up the corners with the 45-degree line running from corner to corner. You want to make the diagonal line and cut at the corner where the extra sewn strips meet. This way the patterned and accent fabrics will be along the outer edge keeping the inner block pattern consistent.
Mark your diagonal cutting line, add your staystitching along both sides, and cut your block into two triangles. These may be set in place and just one more step before you’re ready to assemble your quilt top.
How to Make On-Point Side Setting Triangles
The last four blocks will be used to make the eight side setting triangles to complete your quilt. First, you must increase the size of the remaining four blocks by sewing a 2 ½” strip to two adjacent sides of the block. The finished block should measure at least 16 ½ ” x 16 ½”.
Place each block on your mat lining up the corners with the 45-degree line running from corner to corner where the extra sewn strips meet. Mark your diagonal cutting line, add your staystitching along both sides, and cut your block into two triangles. Set these side setting triangles in place and you’re ready to assemble your quilt top.
To Press or Not Press
When I quilt, the blocks are ironed before sewing them into rows. They are pressed with seams going in one direction as much as possible. I don’t press the quilt top until it’s completely sewn together. That way I can sew the rows in the right direction as they were sewn. I find it easier than trying to figure out the sewing directions in advance. There really is no right or wrong answer, just what works best for you.
How to Finish the Final Assembly of an On-Point Quilt Top
Complete, detailed instructions are included above to assemble your on-point quilt top. First sew your rows together with side setting triangles on each end, being sure they mirror each other. Next sew your small corner setting triangles to the ends of your longest row. Then sew rows 1 & 2 together adding a large corner setting triangle to the shortest edge. Your final step is to sew each corner unit to one side of the longest center row with the two small corner setting triangles on the ends.
When attaching the corner units to the center row, be sure to line up your blocks correctly to make a square. It’s worth putting in a few pins where the blocks will be joined just to be sure your row is placed where it needs to be. Sew your ¼” seam matching and nesting the block seams as you sew. Once both corner units are attached, your quilt top is complete.
Give Your Quilt Top a Trim
Since these setting triangles are a bit larger than required, the corners will be extending out beyond the quilt edges. This allows plenty of room for squaring up your quilt top while also maintaining a ¼” seam allowance. After all that work you don’t want to cut off any corners.
Beginning at one corner, use your longest ruler to even up your sides and the corner triangles. Line up your ruler with the straight edge of the quilt so it also extends past the corner. Also, double check that you are leaving at least a ¼” seam allowance where the blocks join together.
Using the ruler markings, ensure your edge is straight, and trim off any excess fabric. This is where the 90-degree lines come in handy to ensure you’re cutting a perfect square. If you place your ruler with one of the lines going in the opposite direction of the cutting side, you will be cutting a nice square corner. Repeat this for all corners and along the sides where needed.
My Personal Final Step
With all the time measuring, cutting and sewing a quilt top together, that last thing I want are unraveling seams along the edge. This is another time when staystitching works wonderfully. After the quilt top is pressed, I sew around the entire quilt to secure all the seams. Sewing from the under side allows me to see which way each seam should be facing. This is also a great time saver when quilting and adding the binding because the seams stay put. There is no twisting along the edges where the quilt should be nice and smooth.
I hope you give this this quilt a try. Making an on-point quilt using this method is easy with fantastic results.
Click For Your Free PDF Pattern
With all the details included here, I thought it’d be a bit easier to have a pattern with step-by-step instructions. Click on the link above for your free copy.
I love the look of wavy line quilting but tried it with my walking foot on a table runner from one end to the other. I found my one inch sashings really got distorted and did not look straight when completed. Do you have any tips for doing wavy line quilting without distorting your blocks and sashings? Thank you!
Great question, Julie! I use an even-feed walking foot. If you check out my YouTube channel, I just did a tutorial on how to make wavy lines across the length of your quilt. Happy Quilting,
Lea Louise